Strange Question For Mac

I was just in-store and asked the 2 guys who helped me if the apple remote will work with my macbook pro retina display 13'. They both said yes and even showed me where I would go to pair it. System Preferences 2. Security & Privacy 3. Advanced I did those three steps and also tried to google and looked at the manual, both of which said to hold my remote 3-4 inches from the screen and hold down menu and right buttons for 6 seconds until a linking symbol showed up on screen. None of this happened. I am disappointed because I bought this for an important presentation tomorrow and was assured by 2 apple geniuses that it would work.

I will definitely be taking it back unless there is something else I can try to make it work. Thank you:). Asked by Tamara I from Brampton.

Apr 12, 2016. Asked about. Best Answer: Apple remotes (made for the computers and not the Apple TV) are made with Infrared not bluetooth. This means your laptop has to have a infrared receiver. The newer macs no longer have these receivers (at least the MacBooks don't) so the remotes no longer work.

You can see that the older MacBooks (e.g. The 2010 macbook pro) has a black line on the front edge of the body which is the infrared receiver - it works on that. New ones don't have this and so don't have infrared built in. Wikipedia says you can buy yourself a infrared receiver to plug into your USB port. I had the same problem.A MacBook Pro user (and owner of white apple remote & aluminium apple remote). Answered by Dillon C.

Apr 14, 2016. Answer The Apple specs say the MacBook Air 2012 supports up to 2560 x 1600 on an external display. The LG UltraFine 5K manual says it has a 2560 x 1440 at 60 Hz timing so it should work but maybe not. The Macbook Air (13-inch, Mid 2012) only has Thunderbolt 1 (10 Gbps). 2560x1440 60Hz uses about 5.3 Gbps, which leaves less than 5 Gbps for all the USB devices of the LG UltraFine 5K. But Thunderbolt 1 has two bidirectional 10 Gbps channels. If the display uses one channel, then the other channel is free for USB devices.

I guess the only way to know for sure is to try it. To get 5K though, you need an eGPU with Thunderbolt 3 output. The only solution so far is the Blackmagic eGPU (all other eGPU's do not output their DisplayPort signals through a Thunderbolt 3 controller).

Apple does not support eGPUs on Thunderbolt 1 or Thunderbolt 2 Macs, so you'll need to use a workaround (available on the eGPU.io website). Answered by Joseph V from Fort Langley.

Strange Question For Machinist

Jul 26, 2018. The LG UltraFine 5K Display is a Thunderbolt 3 display which uses both DisplayPort connections of the computer's Thunderbolt controller. The Thunderbolt controller sends both DisplayPort signals to the Thunderbolt controller of the LG UltraFine 5K over the Thunderbolt cable. The Thunderbolt controller in the LG UltraFine 5K converts both Thunderbolt DisplayPort streams back into DisplayPort to be used by each half of the display (the left and right sides) to support 5K resolution. That is also the reason why the LG 5K display does not have a second Thunderbolt 3 port - because it is required for one of the DisplayPort signals for one half of the display. The other DisplayPort signal comes out of a DisplayPort connection of the Thunderbolt controller of the display (think of a Thunderbolt 3 dock where you can connect one display to the second Thunderbolt 3 port of the dock, and another display to a DisplayPort output of the dock).

The Thunderbolt controller of the computer does not have a third DisplayPort connection, and since the LG 5K uses two DisplayPort connections (over Thunderbolt), an LG 4K display cannot be daisy chained to the LG 5K display. Also, since a Thunderbolt controller only has two DisplayPort connections, if you connect a LG 5K to one side of the MacBook Pro, then a second display must be connected to the other side of the MacBook Pro (there's one Thunderbolt controller per side of the MacBook Pro). One 5K or two 4K per side of the MacBook Pro can be connected. The USB-C ports of the LG UltraFine 5K only support USB. They do not support DisplayPort because there is no other DisplayPort signal on the Thunderbolt cable that can be used and the display has no other DisplayPort inputs. It might be possible to use a USB to DisplayPort converter (research devices that use DisplayLink, find examples at the DisplayLink or plugable websites) but they don't perform like real displays and may have issues in macOS.

Answered by Joseph V from Fort Langley. Sep 10, 2018.

I have a home network with 5 machines. I also have a DSL connection with 2 router/firewalls between my internal network and my ISP. The Edge router is a ZOOM 3X series Modem/Router which gets its external IP from the ISP. The second Router is a DLink DI-624 Airplus X-treme wireless router. The Dlink gets its WAN port address dynamically assigned to it by the ZOOM router/modem's internal DHCP server. All computers on the internal network get thier IP's dynamically assigned by the DLinks internal DHCP server.

So I have 2 subnets with private address ranges and the set up is as follows: Zoom WAN: 208.154.xxx.xxx Zoom Lan: 192.168.5.1 Dlink WAN 192.168.5.2 DLink Lan: 192.168.6.1 ISP - zoom - - - DLink - 5 computers on 192.168.6.0 After checking my DHCP client table in the DLINK I have noticed a MAC address that matches none of the MAC address on my internal computers nor does it match either of the routers MAC address Not the WAN or LAN ports. This is the only MAC address in this table that does not show a host name with it's entry.

2 of the machines on the Internal network are loptops that have 2 nics (one wireless and one ethernet). I have checked BOTH MACs on these, and neither match this strange address. This strange MAC is being allocated one of my internal IP's.

I Googled the following search criteria and came up with a few threads of people who had found this MAC in thier tables as well. The term I searched was: 'E9-EB-B3-A6-DB-3C + MAC Address' without the quotes. Yep, you guessed it, E9-EB-B3-A6-DB-3C is the strange MAC address that is showing up in my DHCP client table. Oddly enough, guys on this thread from google said they were NOT using a wireless router, that being said, I am using 128 bit WEP encryption and am NOT broadcasting my SSID. The DLINK router allows me to filter MACS, but only From LAN to WAN, I want it filtered the other way around, 'Denied from WAN to LAN' Any answers to this mysterious MAC would be appreciated.Thanks Any answers to where this is comming from would help greatly. Okay, its 1:30 am now, Ill try that tomorrow night when I get home from work, but I didnt think it would matter if both were set up to DHCP as long as both were on different Class C networks, which they are, they Dlink is set up to only allocate to its internal network, not off of the WAN port. The reason I had it set up like that in the first place is a long story, but Ill try to give a shor version here: I originally bought the Dlink before I got the DSL service, in anticpation of the DSL service I was waiting on.

The Dlink does not have a built in Modem, its only Router/Switch/Access point. Well when I finally got the DSL sevice I found out that all our carrier supports in this area is PPPoA and not the more common PPPoE in the US. So then I had to track down a modem that supports PPPoA and found the Zoom router. So I tried hooking the cable from the internal zoom port, to one of the 4 switch ports on the DLINk and just using the Dlink as a switch/ Access Point.

Well that didnt work, it was like the Dlink didnt want to work if its WAN port wasnt plugged into. So thats when I told the zoom to act as DHCP server, and told the WAN port on the Dlink router to retrieve its IP dynamically(fooling it into thinking its getting it from the ISP), and let the DLINK do its router thing to the and from the internal network (route to the zoom which routes to the ISP). Also, if its getting a ghost MAC address from the other DHCP server (the zoom) where would it be comming from, that myterious MAC address doesnt match any MAC address on either one of the routers, of on any machine inside the DLINKs LAN port. Thanks ShawnH. Still don't see why you need the two class Cs. Why not let the 192.168.5.x domain pass right through the Dlink and reflect into the systems, so they are getting their IPs from this Zoom DHCP, with DHCP off on the Dlink?

Why will this not work. There is nothing wrong with having the Dlink think its WAN is coming from the zoom, but since the zoom is the ultimate gateway for the internet, the PCs should be able to see through the Dlink to that primary source. Dual DHCPing generally gives problems, unless they are on 2 separate networks.

Yes you have 2 separate class Cs here, I see that, so it is technically feasible. Maybe if there is no problem, leave it alone. The ghost could be the virtual WAN that the Dlink is picking up as a reflection of the Zoom's translated wan. Or another option, since the Dlink is wireless, you might have a neighbour accidentally sharing your internet connection without realized he/she is.

Those wirelesses love to give access to anyone and everyone in the neighbourhood, you know. LOL sciwriter, yes those wirelesses do love to hand it out, but I thought this shoulve been taken care of by using a 128 bit Hex key WEP and by NOT broadcasting my SSID As for letting the Zoom DHCP pass through the Dlink, I would have to disable routing on the DLINK, would'nt I?

I tried doing that, but couldnt figure out a way. As I mentioned, I unplugged from the wan port, and plugged the zoom into one of the 4 switch ports, then plugged a system into a switch port on the DLink. I couldnt get an address from the Zoom. Keep in mind, the zoom only has 1 ethernet port on it for the internal LAN, so I thought that by plugging it into a LAN port on the DLINK it would send DHCP through to the other machines. BUT, It just seemed like the DLINK did not want to give up its routing functionality, and is dead set on routing From LAN ports to the WAN Ports. DLink has an emulator for this device on their web site if you would like to take a look at configuaration options for it.

Thanks ShawnH. Hi, I think that you even if you don't see it coming the two DHCPs are needed as the experts said.

They have the tendency to confuse packets and PCS in general, to he point to generating a mysterious MAC? If i were you i would disconnect my DLINK wireless, clear the arp cache and display your MAC table.I doubt you will see it. Second step connect the DLINK wireless ALONE, if you still see it. Reset your wireless to factory default, enable 128 encryption, Register teh MAC add of the laptops and see what happens.

Other thing, I found some saying that it is virtual adapter MAC, do u have an kind of device like a 1394 device. Hope this helps. Well Shawn, the normal way would be to go into the Dlink setup first, and turn off DHCP on it.

Reboot it, plug the single LAN of the Zoom into the LAN (not WAN) of the Dlink, and then the other computers into the other LAN ports. The Dlink is just acting now as a hub repeater - the WAN function is not active, because the Zoom is doing the translation from WAN to LAN, as well as DHCP. That is how you make the Dlink transparent. I'm not trying to frig your setup here, I think you did well to get the Zoom working, and the Dlink as a sort of an IP bridge, and if you are happy with that, stick with it!!!

Sciwriter my friend, I know that your not knocking my setup.dont worry, I dont take it like that either. Your help and your suggestens are greatly appreciated. Its just that the setup that you are suggesting is the one that I originally tried (as mentioned in threads above), turning off DLink DHCP, unplugging from its Wan Port, and plugging all into the switch ports, and restarting the Dlink Router. However, now you have me doubting whether or not I missed a step, so later tonight, when all go to bed, Im going to try it again We live on the net here:-) Thats the way I wanted it setup origianally, I dont like having the extra hop in there. I let you know later this evening how it turns out. I do have a little more info for you though about the Mysterious MAC, let me know what you think about this. Enter this search term into Google: E9-EB-B3-A6-DB-3C + MAC Address and youll be linked to a message board on dslreports.com These guys experienced the exact same MAC address in there DHCP table, and most did not even have wireless on thier network.

Strange Question For Macbook

Well I just remembered earlier that about 3 weeks ago I had dslreports.com test my dsl line, transfer rates etc. I also had them do a port scan to tell me what was opened. Hhhhhhhhmmmmm starting to sound mighty suspicous, Im just guessing here, but woudlnt doubt if these same guys on this message board from dslreports had the same things done from dslreports.

But what I dont understand is how they come all the way in to the Dlink router because thats where the MAC is. Anyway, Im going to give the Network another shot latter tonight, trying to put the DLink in the role of switch / access point only. I'll let you know how it goes. Once again, thanks for your help Shawn. Actually, Shawn, the first thing I thought of was a hack attack - but if you have scanned all your systems for worms, and there is nothing, it is unlikely that the MAC address - detective - is in fact a worm. If it is a backdoor to DSL reports, they are no better than a worm, right? SO because I couldn't come up with an answer, I didn't comment on it.

However, when you are in your routers tonight, go through EVERY tab they have, just to make sure there is no reflector setting, or a debug setting. If you can find nothing to create that extra MAC, it is either an outside accidental connection, an artifact of the Dlink bridging the two class C domains, or else perhaps the equivalent of a looback adapter. Also, it could be created by MS networking, perhaps an unusual setting in the TCP/IP or something like that? The key to making the DLink transparent is to make sure you totally reboot everything - even both routers, in sequence, and only later start the computers. Windows has an idiotic way of being slow to pick up on new settings, and far too slow to forget the old outdated ones. ALL systems need to be off, otherwise, they will hang on to ghosts. So as soon as the routers reboot, shut off all systems.

Then reboot them. You might have to go through the DLink fairly carefully to make sure it will see the Zoom as the WAN gateway, and turn DHCP off, but it SHOULD work. OK NOW ITS GETTING WIERD! The MAC address is gone from the table, BUT I couldnt shutdown or restart my machine,Pulled up Nortons and my Email Scan and Auto protect has been turned off and I can not turn them back on. I ran Live update and than ran a full sys scan but Nortons returned nothing. Ive been going through my processes, but cant seem to find anything out of the ordinary. Thinks I's been hacked and had a worm laid upon me!

Any suggestions? Point value has just been increased.The saga continues Shawn. Also download and install Ad-Aware 6.0 - and do the latest signature update from the web, before you run it. As a free program, this is one of the BEST additions one can ever put on one's computer. It is marvellous for removing spyware, and complements any antivirus software perfectly - For a full-time scanner, I recommend McAfee, it has kept me safe. If you need to clean the boot sector of viruses, boot from the XP CD rom, and as soon as the first screen comes up - do recovery console. At the recovery console type - FIXMBR C: FIXBOOT C: That will purge the boot sector of any boot sector viruses, which are always disguised from the virus scanners.

Well sciwriter, I tried re-doing the routers last night and ran into the same problem that I had during the initial set up. I disabled the DHCP server on the Dlink, and unplugged the WAN port and tried using the DLink as switch and AP only, I then shut everthing down, plugged the Zoom a Dlink Lan port, and brought everything back up. The LAN machines could not get an assigned address from the zoom. However, I was on one Class C subnet at this point and set my static IP to this subnet and could ping, surf etc. To the outside world:-) But, becuase I need my DHCP, (laptop goes to work everyday) I went ahead and changed it back. ITs like the Dlink wont let the DHCP pass through, I had its firewall disabled too.

I also found a backweb.exe running in my process list last night. I think its from that stinken Logitech mouse and Keyboard I bought. You think that would be malicious enough to have Norton's Email and auto protect disabled and non functional. Regarless, I want rid of it, even if it means removing that software. Also, when I rebooted that machine and came back up on the network, everything seemed to be working fine.for now. Strange there is no pass through - did you try giving the Dlink a dynamic IP - that would lmost certainly fix the pass through issue. Some need static, some dynamic.

Well at least you know your system is clean now, and yes, get rid of the special mouse drivers - if they can't work with an XP driver, try something else. As for leaving the laptop as dynamic IP, you should always do this - I think maybe the Dlink needed one too, but don't go redoing it again, just for that. It could be a bug in the Dlink firmware - perhaps a re-flash would fix? I had to flash my Dlink, because it was always crapping out on the WAN connection. If you flash it's BIOS, make sure you do it with a HARD cable!!! Hope everything helped.

Have to go now, get back to work, am leaving EE. Best of luck.